Hugo by Hugo Boss Spring/Summer 2010 Show Report
June 30, 2009 – 10:58 am | One Comment

Gold sequins? On the sleeves of a coat? These were only the most obvious surprise in Bruno Pieter’s second collection for Hugo Boss’ more directional line, but already he is marking it out as A …

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Tillmann Lauterbach Spring/Summer 2010 Show Report
July 3, 2009 – 12:07 pm | No Comment

Okay, so some designers perhaps aren’t best at talking about their own work. Tillmann Lauterbach’s faded colours and casual tailoring have become a trademark for him now, but the difference between the press release for Spring/Summer’s HUMANimal collection and what actually emerged was so different to leave you scratching your head a bit.

Mostly head to toe, dipped-in-colour ensembles, what actually emerged was a series of vaguely animal-print coloured jeans teamed with jersey jackets, with hoodies and “fur-esque” sweaters popping up throughout. With simple silhouettes, much of the interest came from the fabrics themselves- cashmere in the blazers, panelling, jacquard weave shirts and reversible shirts in egyptian cotton. As in many collections this season, a roughshod ethnic feel ran through the proceedings- a pair of crushed leather wellies was a reference to ‘emerging from the river of life’, trousers were inspired by rice-pickers garb and a sort of awkward shirt/trench hybrid felt vaguely exotic.

Even if the mix felt a bit half-baked, then there were some interesting ideas that Tillmann could push further. Many of the bags and belts were made from scrap crocodile skin from luxury houses, and the weight of the clothes was designed as a ‘protection’ against global warming and our summers becoming cooler. By focussing down on a few more of these concepts, perhaps he could find a better balance for next time.

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2010 Show Report
June 30, 2009 – 10:35 am | No Comment
Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2010 Show Report

It’s turned out to be a season full of patterns, and few give better pattern than Dries. After a subdued Autumn, the label’s back to what it does best- properly flattering, hugely wearable smart/casual clothes …

Rendez-Vous Spring/Summer 2010 Preview
June 30, 2009 – 9:22 am | No Comment
Rendez-Vous Spring/Summer 2010 Preview

Words by Elliott James Sainsbury.
Rendez-Vous is just one of the many trade shows running alongside the Spring/Summer 2010 men’s presentations. They give a chance to look at what new designers, independent labels and worldwide designers …

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2010 Show Report
June 29, 2009 – 2:25 pm | 2 Comments
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2010 Show Report

Sometimes a designer’s choice of inspiration can seem a bit random- and seemingly none so more than Paul Helbers for Louis Vuitton. This season his muse was NYC cycle couriers-as-butterflies, reflecting their fast paced life …

Buckstyle First: Interview with Christopher Bailey
June 24, 2009 – 1:11 pm | 2 Comments
Buckstyle First: Interview with Christopher Bailey

Word by Celia-Jane Ukwenya
Congratulations on the show and congratulations on your MBE…
Oh, thank you very much
How are you feeling after the show?
I am feeling very good, I am literally running to London tonight because I …

DSquared2 Spring/Summer 2010 Show Report
June 24, 2009 – 1:07 pm | No Comment
DSquared2 Spring/Summer 2010 Show Report

Those DSquared2 boys are never ones to take life too seriously. Last season’s 1930s meets the noughties extravaganza was a satisfying two fingers up to the recession, and this time there wasn’t much meaning- just …

Buckstyle’s Top 5: Woolrich Woollen Mills Spring/Summer 2010
June 24, 2009 – 12:56 pm | No Comment
Buckstyle’s Top 5: Woolrich Woollen Mills Spring/Summer 2010

Ah, Woolrich Woolen Mills. One of the week’s most thorough presentations, this label seems to have come back from out of nowhere thanks to the appointment of designer Daiki Suzuki, who also designs the famed …

Buckstyle’s Top 3: Church’s Spring/Summer 2010
June 23, 2009 – 4:49 pm | 2 Comments
Buckstyle’s Top 3: Church’s Spring/Summer 2010

So many people have taken Church’s to heart, knowing that it’s one of the best sources of well made brogues and lace ups- to the point where it now has almost as big a fashion …

Buckstyle’s Top 5: Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2010
June 23, 2009 – 3:57 pm | No Comment
Buckstyle’s Top 5: Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2010

Following’s McQueen’s inspiring video/presentation, here’s Buckstyle’s pick of five key items you could be wearing next January when the SS 10 collection hits the shops.

1. Oversized print sweater- Nicely oversized and with leather elbow patches, …

Buckstyle’s Top 5: Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2010
June 23, 2009 – 3:42 pm | One Comment
Buckstyle’s Top 5: Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2010

How to be bold and classic at the same time? That’s no such problem for Sergio Rossi, whose shoes seem to get better and better the further they push their ideas. By not sticking to …

Les Hommes Spring/Summer 2010 show report
June 23, 2009 – 6:48 am | No Comment

Video filmed and edited by Celia-Jane Ukwenya. Words by Elliott James Sainsbury.

You couldn’t think of a better venue, or a better metaphor for Les Hommes’ melding of futurism with tailoring. The long, antique walkways of …