Video filmed and edited by Celia-Jane Ukwenya. Words by Elliott James Sainsbury.

You couldn’t think of a better venue, or a better metaphor for Les Hommes’ melding of futurism with tailoring. The long, antique walkways of the Universita di Milano, a location that designers have been trying to use for years, lit up by the biggest spotlights you’ve ever seen. The effect was almost scary, evoking some kind of futuristic take on Laurence of Arabia meets Star Wars.  In fact, “future desert” seems to be a bit of a theme this season, and rocking up like a thirst quenching oasis are the wonderful Les Hommes. First impression is the trousers – and by several light years the best drop-crotch, pleated dhoti styles we’ve seen for ages. Those trousers continued, with silks, high-gloss nylon and jodphurs giving a healthy dose of swagger.

More sleevelessness here too, becoming a bit of a look with shorts – better start working on your abs soon. Blazers came with parachute hoods. Skinny trousers were balanced out with oversized, flappy bomber jackets up top. Plus fantastic, fantastic shoes, including a cutaway hi-top sneaker, cutaway suede oxfords and toe-post sandals. Styled in tone-on-tone looks by the very talented Mr. Way Perry, Les Hommes are becoming a serious force in Milan Fashion Week.

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