Buckstyle’s Top 5: Woolrich Woollen Mills Spring/Summer 2010
Ah, Woolrich Woolen Mills. One of the week’s most thorough presentations, this label seems to have come back from out of nowhere thanks to the appointment of designer Daiki Suzuki, who also designs the famed New York label Engineered Garments. What was so good, you might ask? Well, workwear- the big new trend that is influencing everyone from catwalk shows like Burberry Prorsum down to the backpacks and rolled-up chinos popping up in street style across the world.
Woolrich itself was a famed US producer, and the concept behind this designed range is ‘garments with a purpose’- in other words, meticulously researched pieces inspired by history, where each small detail serves a function. That’s to say cropped railroad jackets, hunting waistcoats, button-down shirts and sturdy outerwear in washed and authentic fabrics that are surprisingly in tune with what we want to wear now. Buckstyle presents 5 items to covet for Spring 2010…
1. Nautical print jacket- Daiki Suzuki found this pattern on an old jacket, but back then the boats were coloured in and it was tiny. By streamlining it and blowing it up, you have the kind of jacket men have probably wanted for ages but nobody has ever dared produce.
2. Purple and yellow plaid shirt: The collection was inspired by surfing- Daiki told us he’s been spending most of this time doing it, in fact. Drawn from archive images, the tiny pockets and saturated hue of this shirt are top stuff.
3. Floral print bucket hat: Yes, they’re back. Woolrich produced several Hawaiian and surf-inspired versions for SS 10 in the same fabrics as some of their shirts. Worn together, they’d look great and the shape feels better than most- malleable, creasable and effortless all round.
4. Patchwork cord trousers: Again, patchwork trousers are what I’ve been looking for for ages, but nobody seems to have had the gusto to make any. It’s easy to forget that historically, men’s garb has been a lot more forward-thinking than it’s made out to be. That’s why Suzuki’s huge amounts of research into workwear makes these trousers real, rather than a gimmick.
5. Nautical print totes: The same nautical print also showed up across these totes and backpacks. Notice how they’re kept masculine through the big shape, good proportions and the sheer boldness. FYI, there’s a backpack version too…
The second, more affordable line John Rich & Bros collection is also full of delights… the bag below, or the crumpled shirts and short combo- plus this dashing chap they asked to model the clothes.
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