Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2010 Show Report
It’s turned out to be a season full of patterns, and few give better pattern than Dries. After a subdued Autumn, the label’s back to what it does best- properly flattering, hugely wearable smart/casual clothes with a healthy ethnic twist. Though apparently Dries, being a very busy man and all that, doesn’t get to travel much. So this collection was an amalgamation of two recent trips that struck the designer- a mixture of Indian and Japanese prints and influences, filtered through Dries’ double breasted and trench-coated ‘western’ sensibilities.
So we got digitally-produced batik print on a perfectly cut trench; extremely skinny cropped trousers covered in muted ikat pattern; and delicate silk shirts with illustrations. A strong use of muted colours and sharp tailoring- keeping the attention on the print- kept things masculine. Simple items, like well made double breasted jackets or well cut shirts, were just good quality.
There was also a belt thing continuing from last season- jackets, shirts and cardigans that belted with a self-tie in the style of kimonos. Again it was ‘ethnic’ but without beating you senseless- much like the basket-weave oxfords and printed shoes that punctuated the looks.
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I’m not the murdering kind but if you threw that plaid double breasted jacket and a pair of those printed trousers into the equation I’m pretty sure I’d do it.