Gold sequins? On the sleeves of a coat? These were only the most obvious surprise in Bruno Pieter’s second collection for Hugo Boss’ more directional line, but already he is marking it out as A Big Thing to watch. Echoing the house colours of red, white and blue – a subtle take on 90’s logomania, perhaps- this was an exemplary balance between sharp tailoring, futurism and wearability.

Taking place on a raised white catwalk, we saw sheer shirts, short shorts, trenches and octagonal-cut jackets in white, white, white. In fact, it was the most convincing argument for wearing head-to-toe white yet, teamed with gladiator sandals and cropped trousers. Some jackets had their lapels shaved off and displaced slightly further down, like fins; others were waist-height, double breasted and epauletted.

The show then went nautical, or at least a Germanic space age version. The coolest pale blue, thin stripes contrasted with wide stripes, cream jackets with flashes of red shorts or pleated trousers; wide blue stripes contrasted with thin stripes; a sleeveless waistcoat ensemble that was structured and tailored so as to resemble armour for sailors; and then those sequins. They appeared in constricted panels across the bottom half of a blazer or, as mentioned, on sleeves to give another deep colour. Watch out for them in editorials soon, I bet. Also of note was the trousers- here, the pleats were often elongated across a high waist to give a subtly different silhouette when teamed with a cropped jacket. One pair even had a coat tail hanging off the back. A good reason, if ever, why front shots just don’t do catwalk shows justice.

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