Words by Elliott James Sainsbury

There’s been an awful lot of bullshit written about denim. Typing the word into my email search box immediately summons up press releases boasting about all sorts of crazy washes, finishes and detailing that I’m not entirely sure anybody really needs or cares about; jeans dyed with organic Japanese indigo; triple-coloured inner selvedge; reindeer leather patches; and even a pair inspired and named after a Vogue member of staff (a Buck pair is, alas, not in the pipeline). All with little thought to fit, flattery, or an overall look for something considered such a wardrobe staple.

Yet this season denim goes beyond that- it’s a key thread running through Spring 2010’s looks from the big Milan and Paris names through to independents. It’s on bags, loafers, belts, scarves, and even TU at Sainsbury’s boasted a smart denim shirt in their collection.

Legendary model Tony Ward in Wrangler’s premium Blue Bell line.

This resurgence is easy to trace. It’s a perfect storm of slow-burn influences like the revival of early 20th century workwear and nostalgia for the 90’s (two contrasting periods when denim reigned supreme), sparked by a near-perfect denim label- Acne. It’s hard to underestimate the impact of their nonchalantly rolled-up, 90’s leaning styling and influential tie-up with Lanvin. That collection revealed the fabric for what it is; a way of achieving a huge variety of colours and textures in looks.

Acne x Lanvin collaboration for Spring/Summer 2010

Topman have even dedicated a whole trend to denim. Design director Gordon Richardson calls it “A celebration of denim in all its guises; the range uses washes and finishes to give a sophisticated utility look.” Expect heavy shirts, chinos and even a denim boiler suit.

Why does he think denim is back? “It’s fail-safe and sexy in equal measures. Its new mood, more gentle and composed, is perfect for now. The whole denim vibe feels just right; with the re-emergence of chambrays and marled knitwear currently taking centre stage, the mood is the polar opposite to the whole ‘Quo’ look and the most recent indie skinny-black-jean dominance and moves into a more subtle world of blues ranging from pure indigo to soft washed pigment dyed blues.”

Denim represents the current generation’s ability to re-invent what exists and look at things without historical reference; we’re not interested in people telling us we look like Status Quo or old Levi’s adverts. And for too long, men have actually been hard-done-by by their supposed fashion best friend; ruled over by crazy style rules (don’t mix, don’t match, don’t mix denim from different looms, etc). All we really ever needed was a pair of jeans that doesn’t make our arse look big or our legs too skinny; a nice shirt that doesn’t make us look like Kanye or JT below. The cut, of course, is important to keep neat but the limitations are endless. Think of denim as a new palette of blues, blacks and greys, colours that suit everyone; it is just a kind of cotton, after all.

Great ways to wear denim:

b Store Spring/Summer 2010- denim belt and bag by AWAI for b Store

Topman’s Indigo trend, launching this month.

Denim shirt, £22 from New Look- exceptional as an overshirt with pale chinos or black jeans.

How not to wear denim:

The once-impeccable Kanye West slips further down the style ladder. Too rough, too matchy.

Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears in 2001- a cheap shot, but worth remembering why denim fell out in the first place.

This week I have been mostly…

Obsessing over: Telfar’s SS 10 collection. Blowing away all other ‘ethical’ designers whilst simultaneously pushing the boundaries of western, put-together styling.

Coveting: Lanvin’s sneaker cufflinks from colette. Ridiculous, but once seen, rarely forgotten.

Listening to: Discovery, So Insane, Hot Chip, Take It In, Nottee, Control from Kitsune Maison 8, The Pharcyde Runnin’,  à;GRUMH…, Danger Zone

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